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5 January 2017

Getting to know Saigon

Saigon is busy. The energy and the atmosphere of the city, especially the centre, is electric. Bustling with people, bikes and cars. No matter what time of day it is, there is always something going on.

Most tourists that visit Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as it is also known, spend their time in the tourist-centric heart of the city. District One comes complete with backpackers, hotels, bars, cafes, markets, and well-known sights such as the Post Office, Notre Dame Cathedral, and the Reunification Palace.

Unbeknown to the majority of people travelling through, Saigon is actually made up of 24 districts, each with their own function and personality. To find out more I joined the XO Tours team for their Saigon by Night motorbike tour. XO Tours is a locally run Vietnamese company whose motorbike drivers are exclusively women. As a female travelling alone this was an attractive part of the offering.

I was met at my hostel in District One by Tam, my driver for the evening. XO drivers are easily spotted because they wear blue and white traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai with white XO Tours helmets.

Not a motorbike owner myself, when I first arrived in the city the thought of taking a bike taxi was not that appealing. At first glance, the traffic is intimidating with hundreds of bikes weaving in and out all over the roads and the pavements. You begin to wonder how the few cars there are don’t have moped shaped dents in them. But on closer inspection, all the cars and taxis are fairly modern and well looked after with no dents. And all the mopeds, although sometimes older, don’t seem too beat up. What at first looks like an impending multi-vehicle pile-up, is actually organised chaos, with pedestrians, cars and thousands of motorbikes and bicycles moving in turn. All being mindful of each other while also trying to get where they need to be.

Riding on the back of Tam’s bike I felt safe and secure, she was a confident rider and knew her way around the streets of Saigon. It was an amazing feeling to zoom down the highway among local Vietnamese commuters as the sun set for the evening.

Our first stop was District 5 – China Town. We met Sang, our tour guide and the other guests on the tour for an introduction before exploring. We walked through fascinating markets selling live chickens and all sorts of meat and veg, laid out on tarpaulins on the floor, with people riding mopeds through the middle of it all. The surrounding streets were lined with shops selling decorative lanterns, wedding decorations and flowers. We stopped at a street food stall to watch them make broken rice and pork, a local delicacy. A top tip from Sang was to buy your street food from a stall joined to a restaurant because they are often more hygienic.

Next stop District 8 for dinner at a huge outdoor restaurant. Here locals choose their meat from the counter and BBQ together at the tables. We sat down in the low relaxed seating to enjoy some of the local food and a glass of refreshing sugar cane juice.

On to District 7 which is the new district where expats and well-off Vietnamese live. It is a world away from the hectic streets of District One, very quiet, with modern buildings, no overhead power lines, and very few bikes.

Our last stop was District 4, Sang told us this is where you can find the best seafood in Saigon. We stopped for some dessert at a street cart. The atmosphere was great with lots of people sitting around eating and drinking beer.

The XO bike tour was fantastic, with friendly, funny, and knowledgeable English speaking guides and drivers. Ideal for solo travellers or groups of friends wanting to see more of Saigon from a locals point of view. Surrounded by local people going about their evening, it felt like you were out for dinner with friends rather than on a tour.

Top Tips for Seeing Saigon

1. For getting around the city download the Grab app (similar to Uber) on your phone for cheap taxis, cars and bikes.
2. If you pick up a bike taxi on the street make sure to check the price as they can over charge you. Be clear with them how much they are expecting you to pay. Sometimes when they say 150 they mean $150, or 1.5 million Dong. Not 150 Dong, which is a big difference.
3. Walking around is the best way to see the main sights. You can stop and get street food, or fresh fruit drinks from stalls as you go. It is really easy to walk through whole of District One, just be careful crossing the road as mopeds and bikes can come from anywhere. Plus, when you have a terrible sense of direction (like me) and absolutely no internal compass you can walk the same 2 square kilometres for hours and be totally content. Walking the same street but in the opposite direction completely convinced you are in a new part of town.

To find out more about XO Tours visit their website: https://xotours.vn/

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21 August 2016

Summer Cycles: A Two Wheeled Olympic Adventure

Sarah Loughlin follows the 2012 Olympic Road Race Route to explore the beautiful Surrey hills, the River Thames and the Royal Parks.

There is nothing better than sailing past standstill traffic on your bike, feeling very smug from the cycle path, taking in a bit of sun and fresh air, while the angry car dwellers stare at the long line of vehicles in front. This summer holiday why not leave the car at home and see a bit more of the world than the bumper of the next car!

Over 10,000 athletes from 204 countries took part in the 2012 Olympic games in London, which will go down in history as the first games to feature female athletes in all sports and from every competing country. Great Britain finished third overall with Silver medal in the woman’s road race from Lizzie Armistead, and two medals from the men’s time trial. With the next Olympics in Rio already upon us, its time to get on the road and explore the road race route of London 2012!

Day 1: Redhill to Kingston (16 miles) Arrive at Gatwick – take a 15-minute train to Redhill and pick up your bike from C and N Cycles (www.candncycles.co.uk – advanced reservation recommended). Kingston is a historic market town with fantastic riverside bars and restaurants, make sure to arrive in time for dinner at Stein’s (www.stein-s.com) and enjoy some Bavarian goodies in their riverside Biergarten to give you energy for your next leg!

Day 2: Kingston to Richmond (4.5 miles) Today’s short ride will take you through the magnificent Richmond Park with the long wild grass and roaming deer. Why not pack a picnic and enjoy views out over London from the top of the hill.

Day 3: Richmond to Hampton Court (23 miles). Get an early start today and arrive on The Mall in time to watch the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace. Take a leisurely ride back through Richmond Park to Hampton Court, another stunning riverside location.

Day 4: Hampton Court Palace and Gardens. Enjoy a day off the road and explore Henry VIII’s beloved palace, built as we now know it in 1540, it is packed full of fascinating history. If you are visiting during the festive season make sure to book in for a ghostly carol singing tour of the Palace at night and go ice-skating in the grounds. If you are here in summer check out the open-air cinema, or the famous Flower Show.  

Day 5: Hampton Court to Guildford (21 miles) Todays journey takes you through the pretty riverside town of Weybridge on your way to Guildford. Guildford has a lovely cobblestone town centre with plenty of shops and bars to choose from. Head to the Weyside, a traditional English riverside pub and stock up on energy for tomorrows ride. 

Day 6: Guildford to Box Hill (15 miles) Almost on the home straight, todays ride is much shorter. Take a leisurely lunch in at the White Horse in Shere, a charming English Pub set in a 15^th century farm house, and location of Hollywood film ‘The Holiday’. With a full stomach its time to head to Box Hill. Legs at the ready, this is a steep one!

Day 7: Box Hill to Redhill (10 miles) Congratulations you have now completed the London 2012 Olympic cycle route! Jump on the train back to the airport and rest those weary legs.

Total = 89.5 miles

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9 July 2016

Sarah vs. Shark: Surfing Down Under

With the recent rise in Shark attacks both in Australia and other parts of the world Sarah Loughlin finds out just how Sharky it really is out there.

The most dangerous thing about surfing in Jersey was the chocolate milkshakes from El Tico’s. Those things were seriously addictive. Learning to surf in the UK seemed a tremendous feat at the time, but looking back the worst thing that could happen was you would get a weaver fish, or be washed up on the beach a bit battered and bruised.

Growing up in the England I had never given sharks much of a thought. But the recent move to Australia has bought these issues to the front of my mind. The week we moved over to the Gold Coast, a surfing mecca, was just after World Champion Surfer Mick Fanning was attacked by a shark in South Africa. Mick is from the Gold Coast, and can often be seen out on the water when he is in the area.

Just How Sharky Is It?

There have been record numbers of Shark attacks in the last few years on both the West coast and more recently the East coast of Australia. In 2015 there were 22 recorded shark attacks on humans in Australia, this is double the amount recorded in 2014, and higher than the yearly average of 13. Of the 22 attacks, only one was fatal, and seven of the shark attack victims were uninjured. NSW has the highest rate of attacks with 14 recorded in 2015. Experts have many theories about why this might be, and are equally unsure as to how to deal with the problem. From increased helicopter patrols and lifeguards on previously un-manned beaches, to more controversial solutions such as shark culling and shark nets. Some reports say that one of the most influential factors to the increase in attacks is the increase in population. The more people there are in Australia spending time in the water, the more chance that a shark attack could occur.

Facing My Fear

Before heading in to the water I wanted to find out exactly what I was up against so I caught up with Josh Fuller, a pro surfer who now runs his surf school from Kingscliff, NSW. One of the first things Josh explained is that is it a small selection of shark species that are normally involved in shark attacks; Tiger Sharks, Bull Sharks, and Great White Sharks. Most other species are completely harmless. Josh explained that there are risks involved with surfing, as there are with most sports, but if you take the time to learn about basic ocean safety you are more likely to enjoy surfing and stay safe in the water.

One of the first Aussie phrases I came across moving over here was ‘Sharky’. Not commonly used in other parts of the world, I still wasn’t quite sure what it meant. ‘It’s more of a feeling’, explains Josh, ‘when the sky is grey and overcast, and the water looks really dark, it just feels sharky’. One of the first points covered in Josh’s ocean safety run down is to avoid surfing at dusk and dawn, as this is feeding time for sharks. After our pep talk on the beach I was ready to hit the surf.

Splashing about in the shallows in the warm, clear waters it was hard to imagine that there were huge predators swimming probably not that far away. Josh explained that although sharks are often close by, the number of attacks on surfers compared to the number of surfers is very low. After picking up a few tips from Josh on my technique and spending time in the water with a local, I felt confident that I could take to the beach on my own, but I still couldn’t get the thought of sharks out of my head.

To get over my fear I wanted to see what was going on under the water, and get a feel of what might be lurking underneath me. I felt that if I could see one up close I wouldn’t be scared anymore. It’s more the fear of the unknown than anything else. Sort of like falling off your bike for the first time when your a kid, once you have done it, and it doesn’t hurt that bad, and you don’t have to be scared of it.

Heading out on the boat to Cook Island, a local diving spot known for being a bit sharky, I had mixed feelings. I wanted to see a shark, but at the same time I felt like hunting them down was asking for trouble. Never the less I hopped into the water and sunk down with the dive instructor to have a look around. I will never tire of diving and seeing at the marine life going about their business, swimming about, its mesmerising. About 10 minutes in, almost forgetting why I was there, I saw one. Small, but most certainly a shark, it swam by in the distance, not giving us a second glance. After thinking of nothing but sharks for the last few weeks, it seemed almost an anti-climax to have the shark be so uninterested in us.

I blame my irrational fear of Australian wildlife on being addicted to Steve Erwin’s TV show. Before I moved here I imagined that everything in Australia would kill you as soon as look at you. But with one fatal shark attack per year in Australia you are far more likely to come to a sticky end using a vending machine!

To get out surfing on the Gold Coast visit in2surf.com.au and book your lesson!

 

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13 August 2015

Holiday Survival Guide

Sarah Loughlin talks to Joanne Reid Rodrigues, nutritionist and author of Slim, Happy Free about how to eat healthily while enjoying yourself on holiday.

Hotel breakfasts will be the death of me. I am a sucker for a buffet. I promise myself I will just have a bit of toast, but before I know it I am tucking in to three different types of eggs and a mound of bacon. This wouldn’t be a problem if hotel breakfasts were a rare occasion, or a special treat, but when you have one everyday of your two-week holiday you can quickly start piling on the pounds.

Jersey’s own Joanne Reid Rodrigues from Slimming Together has been teaching islanders how to live a healthy lifestyle while still enjoying themselves for 30 years; I caught up with her to see how she copes with travel.

SL: What do you think is the most common downfall for frequent travellers when it comes to eating healthily?

JRR:Some folks panic a little bit when they are out of their own kitchen; but in reality, nothing finds its way into our stomach unless we put it there! On short trips in particular, there are various ways to keep choices health-oriented. However, if the trips are pleasure-oriented, we might feel more relaxed and have an alcoholic drink at the airport to get the holiday started; if our mindset is focused on having fun or relaxation, our food choices might reflect this.  I would say our mindset is both our greatest strength and downfall, depending on how we approach situations.

SL: If like me people have eyes bigger than their stomachs, what is the best tactic to tackle a hotel buffet situation?

JRR: Ask yourself how you want to feel after your meal or in the morning. Being mindful that too much food can cause us to feel bloated and tired can help us make balanced choices. I love buffets, but I usually take a look at all the appealing foods and remind myself that it’s not all for me! Eating is a pleasure, but if we overdo it we might diminish our enjoyment of our day or evening ahead. Everything in balance.

SL: How can eating healthily benefit you while away?

JRR: We benefit from eating healthily in numerous ways – most typically, our mood and energy levels are affected by our dietary choices. It’s important to avoid any foods we have an intolerance of, since many folks feel sluggish and tired if they eat foods their body has an immune reaction to. Our dietary choices affect our cognitive state, our feelings, and even our behaviour. Making healthful choices helps us have clear thinking and sharper concentration.

SL: Airport delays are one of my down falls, what are the best choices at the airport?

JRR: Many airports are now catering for health-oriented travellers and I would often choose vegetable soup or a baked potato with salad. I’ve even been able to find porridge at many airports. On long flights, I’d recommend avoiding wheat-based foods like bread and pasta since wheat encourages fluid retention, which can be more of a problem during a long flight. Nuts such as almonds and walnuts are excellent and a piece or two of fruit – these make good snacks.

SL: I am the worst for trying to eat my way through jetlag, if you get the post flight munchies what are the best types of food to go for?

JRR: When we feel extremely tired we might have strong coffee to give us a kick and perhaps some chocolate or sugary pastries for that little sugar rush. But it’s the worst thing really, because caffeine and sugar actually deplete our energy and the more we have, the more exhausted we feel. The body needs sleep, and a good natural sleep aid is tart cherry juice which is a natural source of the hormone melatonin and also contains the amino acid tryptophan. Drinking half a glass before bed typically aids sleep and mood. As at all times, the best food choices include plenty vegetables and vegetable juices, fruits and other unprocessed complex carbohydrates, nuts, seeds, and lean proteins such as fish including salmon and mackerel and white meat.

SL: Another potential downfall of holiday eating is the pre-dinner drinks, have you got any advice to avoid over indulging on the canapés and aperitifs?

JRR: It’s not what we do upon occasion that creates weight gain – it’s what we do on a regular basis. If you go on trips occasionally, having an aperitif and canapés typically isn’t a problem. But if you go often, and if you’re concerned about your weight or aspects of your health, I would simply make a decision to drink San Pellegrino – a clear head helps us maintain control over how much we eat. To avoid feeling ravenous which of course naturally leads to us eating lots at a party or gathering, we can even have a small healthy meal before going to the event – a couple of oat cakes lightly spread with mashed avocado or even a small bowl of porridge takes the edge off our appetite and helps us maintain control.

To see more from Joanne and get a copy of her book visit her website www.slimmingtogether.com.

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13 August 2015

Tandem Adventures

Two Guernsey newbies discover the second biggest of the Channel Islands on a bicycle built for two. 

Possibly the best thing about a tandem bicycle is that no matter how fast the person in front of you Pedals, they can’t get away. As much as Drew, my boyfriend, and the captain of our tandem, might have liked to as I sang the chorus of A Bicycle Built For Two on repeat.

We had picked up our tandem bike, fondly named Barry, at the airport. After a quick coin toss to see who would have to steer it, we set off. It was our first time on the island and from the moment we landed, with no airport queues or passport control, I knew we were going to get along with the place.

With my face pressed firmly into Drew’s backpack, I couldn’t see a thing, It was a strange sensation peddling but having no idea what the up coming road was like. There was almost something quite relaxing about pedalling, but not having to worry about navigating the country roads.

Our first port of call was the campsite, flying over to Guernsey from London and packing only as much as we could fit in our backpacks had meant we couldn’t take a tent or camping equipment. That is not a problem at Fauxquets Valley Campsite, which is about 10 minutes ride from the airport. Started in 1974 as a family business, the campsite runs between May and October offering pre-made tents, which they call Hire Tents, equipped with cooking facilities and proper beds with bedding included.

The campsite owners, Teresa from Wales and Roland from Guernsey, met in the French Alps about 10 years ago and took over the campsite from Roland’s parents in 2008. Fauxquets is ideal for families or couples alike, with a heated swimming pool and farm animals for the children; and a relaxing sun terrace and bar area for the adults. This campsite has full facilities, and they really have thought of everything including ironing boards, irons and free hair driers. They offer pizza and BBQ nights, as well as a small farm shop and cafe where you can pre- order fresh bread and pastries.

Once we had dumped our bags in the tent we set off to explore the Island. Back on the tandem, we had got the hang of getting the bike going with only a few hiccups, mostly at traffics lights with long queues of friendly islanders behind us chuckling to themselves. I had decided to captain Barry for our second trip, but I was starting to regret it.

‘Stop trying to steer from the back!’

‘I’m not’

‘You are, stop it. Why are you peddling, we are going down hill, stop peddling!’

I had never noticed before but Drew has a rather unique way of cycling which involves his entire body in a strange wiggling motion that starts somewhere around his shoulders and somehow results in the bike moving. This did not bode well with him as the passenger on the tandem, as he wobbled like jelly inadvertently steering the tandem from the back, more often than not into an on coming hedge.

Our destination was Fermain Bay, about 20 minutes ride from the campsite. As we approached the beach the road got very steep so we abandoned poor Barry at the top of the hill and continued on foot. After about 15 minutes the woody path opened up into a beautiful bay with the bluest sea I had ever seen. The contrast to the pebble beach, the cliff face and the leafy trees that topped it made it all the more impressive. Dumping our stuff by the sea wall we walked out to the water.

Guernsey has a lovely atmosphere, everyone is friendly and even on a warm summers day the beach was not crowded. It’s also a great place to cycle because cars and their drivers seem very easy going and are very courteous. I noticed this not only when on the bike but when crossing the road as well. No one really seems to be in a rush, which is nice. Even the bus drivers waited patiently behind the tandem as we trundled up the hill.

Heading back to the tent for dinner we stopped off for some ‘hedge veg’ from one of the many veg stalls in people’s front gardens dotted around the island. They sell home grown produce and have honesty boxes for payment. The peppers and courgettes we picked up were a fantastic accompaniment to our campsite feast.

Back on the plane again I felt the trip had gone far too quickly. ‘Gosh, my legs are so sore!’ Said drew as he gingerly settled into the plane seat. Doing a quick mental check of all my limbs, they seemed to be fine. Perhaps I wasn’t peddling quite as hard as I thought on those long old hills!

Getting there: If you fancy a break but don’t want to travel too far – go to Guernsey on your next trip for a bit of sun and a break from the norm, flights take less than an hour and start from roughly £50 return. 

Sarnia Cycle Hire offer a tandem with drop off and collection from the airport for £26 per day or £80 for a week.

Fauxquets Valley Campsite Hire Tents from £55 per night based on two adults sharing.

 

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21 July 2015

Sun, Surf and Yogis

Sarah Loughlin ventures to Taghazout to check out the world famous waves and the developing surf culture in the small Moroccan town.

There is nothing in life both as thrilling and frustrating as surfing. After spending the winter battling through the frosty waves in the Channel Islands, trying to get the hang of this new hobby of mine, I thought I would take my own advice on learning a watersport and add a bit of sunshine to the mix!

Taghazout, a small fishing village turned surfers paradise, is about an hours drive from Agadir Airport. Having never been to this part of Africa before I had no real idea what to expect. The village itself is bustling with people, cars and mopeds and the small square is surrounded by restaurants, and surf shops. The coast is not as picturesque as other places I have visited, but it has a great atmosphere; local families, tourists and surf schools all mingle together on the long sandy beaches. The snack-sellers on the beach are a bit intimidating at first, as they can be a bit pushy, but are actually very friendly and provide much entertainment with their haggling and joke telling. The macaroons and candied nuts they sell are perfect for a post-surf snack!

As those who have been following my previous surf posts will know, I am not a great surfer, I am not even a good surfer. So I had arranged lessons via Surf Maroc; a surf school started by Ollie and Ben, two English surfers, back in 2003. Our surf class was an interesting mix of nationalities and people from different professions and backgrounds. Chatting on the beach at lunchtime was almost as educational as the surf lessons as I learned about the best bars to visit in Krackow, and how the Swiss school system works.

Being largely self-taught I have no concept of ‘surf chat’, and so for the entire first day I assumed wave ratings must be the same as ski slope ratings; green wave must mean beginner wave. I was mightily confused pushing myself into tiny white foamy waves as my teacher yelled from the beach at me to catch a green wave. On day two it clicked, green wave doesn’t mean beginner wave at all, it’s super cool surfer lingo for a wave that has not yet broken. You have to have good timing to catch these as opposed to white waves (the foamy ones), thus they are the mecca of intermediate surf waves.

Part of my problem, like most of the beginners I meet, is that waves are terrifying. Going head on with a huge unbroken wave while attached to an eight foot cumbersome floaty board was seeming more ridiculous the more I thought about it. But I had got this far, board in hand, I was determined to make it out to find one of these sought-after green waves. Alas it was not to be, and I went back to the beach in search of some candied nuts.

Back out in the surf again and I was constantly amazed at how patient and enthusiastic our teacher was with us, despite our consistent face plants into the beach. When my arms had run out of juice he even let me hold on to his ankles so he could paddle me outback to meet the rest of the group – now that is service! Surf Maroc employ a lot of local staff from Taghazout and surrounding villages; this helps improve the local economy and quality of life by providing jobs as well as offering training and opportunities for young entrepreneurs, who sometimes go on to open their own surf businesses. The teachers at Surf Maroc, who have all grown up surfing in the area, have great local knowledge which is huge benefit to the customers. They always managed to hunt down the waves, despite the forecast being not so great, and made sure we were in our wetsuits and out surfing before the beach got too busy.

One interesting thing about holidaying here is that Taghazout is a dry town, as a European this is a bizarre concept. But actually it was quite nice, I drank more Fanta than dentists would recommend, but it is the perfect place if you are planning an alcohol detox! You can buy alcohol in some near by hotels such as the Paradis Plage who have a great beach bar as well as beach side yoga sessions. Outside Paradis Plage the locals bring their horses and camels and you can ride down the long peaceful beach. The surfing in Morocco was great, but it was nothing compared to riding a Camel on the beach at sunset, I felt like a Princess riding through the desert on my trusty steed (one can dream).

If you like a post surf yoga session, Surf Maroc offer classes on their yoga balcony set into the cliffs at the Taghazout Villa. It was quite honestly the most relaxing place I have ever been. As the sun set over the sea, the sound of the waves crashing rhythmically into the cliff was the perfect accompaniment to the session. There is weekly schedule of post-surf evening entertainment at Surf Maroc , the BBQ on the balcony of the Auberge was a nice way to socialise with your surf group out of your wetsuit!

If your weary arms need a break from all that paddling why not head to Paradise valley; only a 45-minute drive from Taghazout. As you drive in to the valley there are cafes and restaurants dotted around next to the river with the tables and chairs in the shallow streams so you can keep your feet cool while you have a nice Fanta. A short hike from the car park at the top brings you through the trees into the valley, where you will find locals having big family days out, preparing and cooking their tagines on the rocks. There are also make shift shacks selling fresh tagines and cold drinks. You won’t be offered a menu, you just ask what they have (normally two different types of tagine!), they are very good value and the food is great.

Renting a car is very reasonable from Agadir airport, petrol is cheap and it’s not to difficult to navigate your way around. Make sure to keep some change handy for the car guards who will watch your car while parked in town or at the beach. If you don’t fancy driving, airport transfers are included in Surf Maroc’s packages and they offer excursions to Paradise Valley. The packages include everything but the flight which you will have to book yourself. If you are booking in advance try Easyjet for direct flights from the UK, or Thomson Flights can be really good for a last minute flight deal. The peak season for Surfing in Taghazout is November – April, so get booking for your mid-winter sunshine now for the best flight deals.

Happy Surfing!

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